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Whenever compiling a list of London’s best dining spots, one might expect familiar Michelin-starred venues. However, nestled high among these gastronomic heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu located in a outlying part of north London.

A Shocking Accolade

This compact Turkish spot, focusing in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been crowned the 4th best restaurant in the capital by a influential culinary publication. The honour has made the proprietors utterly astonished.

“I am completely astonished,” says a proprietor, pointing to his parents’ relentless work that led to their humble restaurant achieving such a lofty spot on a notable 99-strong list.

The Charm of Simplicity

The little venue, which was a simple cafe before its change into a sought-after spot, has kept much of its earlier charm. It fits just more than 20 people and, except for the dazzling live cooking performance, the layout remains mostly unchanged. “It is a small and stocky space,” notes the owner.

The Namesake Offering: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s all about the cuisine, and this eatery more than excels. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a simple joy. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a succulent consistency.

It is then tossed into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are mixed in slowly. As the meaty mixture starts to simmer, freshly made lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to soak in all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley go inside before the savoury meat is folded securely inside.

The wrap is often eaten with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a mighty punch of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, bold onions and red, paprika-infused oil pulling it all together.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A prominent food critic labelled this dish “a part of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For sweets, the restaurant’s künefe proves a treat. It is doused in less syrup than usual, imparting it a richer, toastier and not overly sweet flavour.

Outranking the Giants

Interestingly, this modest spot has outplaced several renowned three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself close to the summit of the list, trailing other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave this place satisfied for below £25, similar tasting menus at top-tier establishments can run into many times that price.

The Philosophy of Warmth

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and best food but I don’t believe in that,” states the owner.

“In my view what is most important is hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This philosophy is shared by the list’s editor, who suggested that if he were in a role of authority, he would “insist to make every chef in London visit this spot as a final lesson, to teach them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to show what is attainable if you do just one – or three – things to their very best”.

A Story of Hard Work

Unlike many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food did not train at fancy establishments. “I am truly happy of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

A lot of restaurants need years to establish themselves, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its success is thanks to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum used to be extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she balanced a personal life but her friends would come here to support her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. Each of these roles made her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he shares.

An Recognition for the Community

This restaurant’s accolade is bound to echo beyond its own walls. “I think many people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the wider meaning of this culinary achievement.